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by Brett Rhyne
photo courtesy of Paul Hamill
THERE'S MORE TO EXPLORE driving south from Carson City along the very eastern edge of the Sierra, past lush farms and meadows, you’ll feel a million miles away from the desert. Eventually, you’ll come to the tiny town of Genoa, the oldest town in Nevada. Tucked under the soaring mountains, Genoa was originally settled in 1849 by Mormons under the direction of Brigham Young (it was first dubbed “Mormon Station” before being renamed after Christopher Columbus’ birthplace by an Italian immigrant). During the Gold Rush Genoa was an important stop for travelers crossing the Sierra, a place where they could load up on provisions before setting off for California. If you can pry your eyes away from the spectacular natural scenery you’ll see dozens of meticulously restored historic buildings along one of the prettiest Main Streets in the West. Make sure to stop into the Genoa Bar for a drink; opened in 1863 it’s the oldest bar in Nevada. And your sweet tooth will be satisfied if you visit during the annual Candy Dance Arts and Crafts Faire, held every September.
In Virginia City the Old West is still alive and well. It’s the largest historical landmark in the United States and a must see for any visitor to northern Nevada. The town was founded in 1859 after gold was found in the nearby Six Mile Canyon and hundreds of prospectors made their way to claim a piece of the Comstock Lode. During the 1860s and 70s Virginia City was one of the largest cities west of the Mississippi and one of the richest cities in the world. Comstock silver helped finance the Civil War and it built much of old San Francisco. Mark Twain was one of many famous residents and his adventures working as a newspaper reporter for the Territorial Enterprise provided much material for “Roughing It,” his book about life in the West.
Today, dozens of shops, bars and restaurants reside in the Victorian buildings lining Main Street and you’ll still see men and women in full Victorian and cowboy attire walking the streets and drinking in the saloons. And from spring through fall there’s usually a special event taking place in town. The Virginia City Camel Race is one of the most unique events you’ll ever lay eyes on, with jockeys holding on for dear life as they race camels, ostriches and emus. If you like things on the scary side, Virginia City has its share of ghost stories. Pencil in a tour of one of the historic cemeteries as well as the Piper’s Opera House, where many say the ghosts of famous performers still walk the stage. For a special treat, instead of driving up the hill, take the historic Virginia and Truckee Railroad from Carson City. Not only will you get a taste of the 19th century travel, you’ll enjoy 100-mile views across the valley.
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